PCB and Wiring
A PCB from another source can be used in
replacing the electronics in a standard device, or giving
communications to a custom controller.
The simple goal in wiring is to have the
grounds and signals of each device linked to the ground and desired
corresponding signals on the PCB. Each device has switches; when the
switch is engaged, a circuit between the ground and signal should
complete and send the signal from the PCB through a cord or remote to
the computer or console. Wires and connectors, solder, and/or twisting
are used to link the devices to the PCB.
For quality PCB wiring, the main goals
are having required signals covered by the PCB, corresponding ground
and signal connections and circuits, solid and secure connections,
connections that will not cross or interfere, insulation, and some
level of organization.
While this wiring concept is simple, implementing it can be more difficult as you can see by the size of this section.
Contents
Grounds and Signals and Circuits
PCB Attributes
Extracted PCBs
Soldering
PCB Mapping and Soldering
PCB Components Modification and Removal
Solderless Extracted PCBs
PCB Diagrams
Wire
Terminals and Crimping
Twisting
Splicing and Chaining
Joystick Connection
Terminal Strips and Organization
Custom PCBs
Multiple PCBs
In order to understand the
function of a ground and a signal in a switch and its device, you have
to understand a few things about electricity.
For electricity to do its
work, it has to flow; the movement of electrons is what usually gives
electricity its effect on things. In order to flow, electricity needs
an entry point and an exit point, and there has to be a difference in
charge between the entry point and the exit point. Electrons flow
quickly from an area with relatively more electrons to one with
relatively fewer electrons.
The flow of electricity from
one charge to a different charge is where the signal and ground come
into play. In most circumstances, the signal has the added charge; each
signal comes with unique attributes to send unique commands. And, in
most circumstances, the ground has no charge; it gets its name from the
fact that the ground of the earth usually has no charge and is a good
place to connect the outlet of an electronic device; since the ground
has no unique attributes, usually the same ground (often called a
common ground) gets used by various signals, acting as a sink for the
charge used by signals.
A circuit is basically a
connection between different charges. When a switch is not engaged, the
connected circuit is open and not completed, and usually no work is
done. When a switch is engaged, the connected circuit is closed and
completed, and work is done by the electricity. When a signal is
connected with a corresponding ground, a circuit is completed and the
device does its work.
Circuits are at the heart of electronics. In
order to compact, organize, and exploit many circuits, they are often
printed on a board, making a printed circuit board, ie a PCB. Numerous
and detailed conductive paths lay out the circuits and functions for a
device.
The bulk of most PCBs is made of a light,
highly durable, nonconductive substance with a texture similar to
fiberglass. On this another nonconductive layer (usually dark-green)
that bonds well to metal is added. On this is added the conductive
metal (usually copper) that makes up all the paths in the PCB. On the
metal that does not need to be exposed, a nonconductive protective
layer (usually light-green and called a solder mask) is used.
In older PCBs, usually only one side of the
PCB is used. In newer PCBs, both sides are often used by adding small,
conductive through-holes in the PCB.
Solder points consisting of an open metal
plate with a hole in the center are used to connect wires that send and
receive signals.
Originating from a wire in the cord or battery
is the ground; it usually gets spread throughout the PCB in a long
path. A ground is easily recognized as its path chains to several
nodes. Sometimes multiple grounds are used and will need to have
corresponding ones provided to each signal.
For each signal, there is a path leading from
a node (like a button or solder point) to an integrated circuit (a
chip) which is powered by the charge in a different wire in the cord or
battery. When a signal is connected to its ground, it gets received by
the integrated circuit. The integrated circuit turns the charge into a
command and sends it down other paths to the solder points connecting
to the cord or remote.
The PCB's structure can be regarded as simple
nodes (like solder and button points) and connections (paths) between
those nodes (this is how electronics diagrams are made). Because
electricity travels near the speed of light, as long as they connect,
the length of the paths between nodes is not really important. And
anything that connects anywhere along those paths can usually emulate
what the connected node(s) does.
PCBs in pad controllers are usually spread
throughout the inside proportioned to the buttons and pads. Commands in
pad controllers are made by having a small, conductive plate at the
bottom of each button press down directly onto the PCB to complete the
circuit between the ground and signal paths. Often conductive rubbery
nodes (usually black) are placed where buttons are pressed. Sometimes
metal plating will be beneath it, while others will branch to a metal
plate.
PCBs often have added pieces and components
that can be removed without making the PCB malfunction. These include
rumble motors and bare areas of the PCB usually like shoulder button
PCBs and the caps on analog sticks. But when it comes to the analog
sticks themselves and other electronic components, caution should be
used, and things get more complicated. Removal of these is discussed in
a later subsection.
The goal in extracting a PCB from a device is to modify it to work for another instrument.
The drawback to using an extracted PCB is that
it will usually require soldering with more permanent and complex steps
in building your controller, and it takes more time and experience than
using a premade PCB. The upside is you can easily choose the system for
which your controller is designed, get cheaper converters, and maybe
save a bit of money.
Find a device like a keyboard or gamepad
(preferably) with the compatibility and the number of commands you need
(one for each button, four for the joystick).
There are trade-offs to using a first- or
third-party device. First-party devices, made by the same makers of the
console, generally have great performance with the machine for which
they are designed, but often are more expensive. Third-party devices,
made by independent makers, can sometimes have performance problems,
but are usually less expensive; an example of this is, due to complex
formatting, many third-party Playstation 3 controllers have a flaw that
will not allow the left direction to engage for more than a few
seconds.
Third-party devices can also be more delicate.
Often, a much thinner, more fragile layer of metal is used on the PCB
(if the PCB is not damaged during modification, this is not a problem).
Some makers (like Intec) also intentionally make their controllers very
difficult to modify. For these reasons, it is often a good idea to
either use a first-party device, or make sure a specific model of a
third-party device works well.
Using a first-party Playstation 1 controller
is often a good option as it is inexpensive and has a lot of buttons,
good performance, simplicity, Playstation 2 compatibility, and a lot of
converters made for its use on computers and other consoles. Dual Shock
1 controllers are often preferred because they have better
compatibilities with some converters and PS2 games. Some converters can
lag a fraction of a second, or have interfering signals, so look around
for recommendations in quality converters (SDTekken has some of this
information link). Also note Xbox 360 and PS3 controllers work on PCs with the proper drivers.
A used or even broken controller will also work fine as long as the PCB
(which is pretty much sealed) and cord or remote are fine, so check
your old controllers or local game stores or trading websites.
Images: Simple, yet very practical, controller; Controller opened
When extracting the PCB, make sure not to disturb the board(s), the
wiring between the board(s) and cord or remote, and the cord or remote
itself; these are the things you need. Undo all the connections that
hold the device together (usually just screws) before opening it up.
I do not recommend going through the trouble of using keyboard PCBs
unless you are already very familiar with modifying them. Many keyboard
manufacturers also specifically design their PCBs in a way that makes
exploiting them for other things difficult. Keyboard PCBs can have
problems with sending multiple signals close to the same time called
"ghosting" (you can be familiar with this by the reaction your computer
gives you when you mash keys) and may require some extra work to
function properly. Plus it can be difficult to distinguish game
commands from standard keyboard commands on your computer. PCBs from
game controllers are much easier.
Solder is conductive metal that melts at a
relatively low temperature and is used to bond two or more metal
surfaces; it can be described as conductive, metal, hot glue. Solder
does not bond things that are not made of metal. In regards to a
controller, it can be used to bond wire ends to metal spots on an
extracted PCB and/or switch terminals on devices like joysticks and
buttons, or even crimping terminals.
Soldering is not the same as welding which melts
two metal objects together without an added substance using very high
temperatures not feasible for electronics.
Soldering takes a bit of practice. It is not as simple as melting things together. There are a few complicating things.
For solder to bond to a metal surface, the surface
also needs to be heated. There is a slight welding of the solder to the
metal surface. Soldering irons actually are not specifically designed
for melting solder, they are for heating surfaces so the surfaces can
melt the solder. Soldering works best when the metal surface(s) is
heated and the solder is melted on the heated metal surface. When
molten solder comes in contact with a metal surface that is properly
heated, it attracts to it like a magnet. A good solder connection
should hold like strong glue.
Adding a very small bit of solder to the tip of the
iron gives it a medium to transfer heat from the soldering iron to the
metal surface (this is called wetting).
The main cause of difficulty in soldering is
oxidation. Oxidation removes electrons from metal particles; this does
two negative things in electronics soldering. It makes metal less
conductive. And it makes solder and metal surfaces not adhere as well.
Oxidized metal looks dirty and dull. Oxidized solder is dull (though
lead-free solder always is) and more white, and is not cohesive or
adhesive. Unfortunately, oxidation occurs at a substantially faster
rate when metal is heated.
Oxidation is fought in a few ways. If dirty, the
surfaces of the metal need to be cleaned before soldering using
abrasives like steel wool, sandpaper, or scraping using things like the
head of a wire.
The main oxidation fighter in soldering is flux.
Flux removes oxidation. One main flux substance is rosin (hence the use
of rosin-core solder; flux can also be found by itself). You see the
flux when you melt fresh solder and smokes emerges; the smoke comes
from the flux. Fresh rosin-core solder or flux added to old solder can
also help remove oxidation. When working with oxidated metal, you can
often see it take on that magnetic quality once flux has been heated
into it.
As you can see when you melt solder, the flux
(smoke) only lasts so long. This introduces another fighter of
oxidation: speed. The solder and the metal surfaces should be heated
for as little period of time as possible.
There are many objects that can go into a solder
connection: two or more metal surfaces, solder, and a soldering iron.
You only have two hands and should not try stunts to hold many things
at once. Use things like clamps and alligator clips or helping hands to
hold surfaces, and techniques that fit working with two hands.
With these concepts in mind, there are two main
methods for soldering. In each the soldering iron needs to warm to a
high temperature beforehand.
The first and more difficult technique involves
placing the two metal surfaces in their final position, holding the
soldering iron in one hand and the solder in the other, and heating
both surfaces while adding the solder.
The second and easier technique involves placing
most of the needed solder on each metal surface (this is called
tinning) and then melting them together with the soldering iron in one
hand and one of the surfaces in the other. Tinned surfaces generally
take solder connections easily. The downside of this technique is
slightly more oxidation occurs.
Another technique that is a hybrid of these two
techniques is putting solder on only one of the surfaces and the tip of
the soldering iron and quickly heating the surfaces together. This
technique may be preferred if one of the surfaces (like a thin or cheap
PCB path) is fragile.
Be sure to use thin rosin-core solder or plain
solder along with flux paste, and use a lower heat (about 15 or 40
watts, 15 to 25 being more appropriate) soldering iron with a thin head
to compliment the small size of PCBs and control oxidation.
The head of a soldering iron endures oxidation and
other contaminates that make it less effective too; it needs to be
cleaned often using things like damp sponges, and steel wool and fresh
and quickly removed rosin-core solder or simple flux. The iron should
be wiped clean with a damp sponge before being set idol. If the head on
a soldering iron is old and not holding solder in small drops, it
should be replaced to avoid poor solder connections.
There is a high chance in learning to solder you
will get burned a few times. Treat burns with cool (not cold) water and
maybe some ointment and bandaging. Remember to be organized, not to
touch any metal on the soldering iron, and that heat transfers (do not
hold objects near where they are being heated). Consider getting a
soldering station to make things easier; a station can also extend the
life of the iron and its head.
A good ally to soldering can be hot glue (most
associated with glue guns). It does not conduct electricity and
reinforces solders so they will not later break. This makes being
gentle with the PCB not so necessary. Usually, good solder connections
hold well without glue, but smaller connection, cheap PCBS, or heavier
wire may need its help. Hot glue can also help hold a base of a wire to
an unused part of the PCB to make it easier to get the wire held in the
needed place before soldering, and give even more reinforcement. Hot
glue can be removed with some warm air and peeling. Other more
permanent strong glues can also do this job.
Before extracting a PCB, make sure
all the functions are working properly so you know that the PCB is
sound. Once a PCB has been extracted, if the cord is not secured
strongly to the PCB with a harness, it is a good idea to reinforce the
cord's connection with hot glue.
When wiring a PCB extracted from a
pad controller, you need to solder a wire to the signal for each of the
needed buttons, and one (or more) wire to each of the unique grounds
used by those signals. The ground is usually shared around in the PCB
and therefore can be shared among all the signals. If the ground is not
completely universal, you will need to pair each unique ground with its
corresponding signal. Even when the ground is universal, some builders
prefer attaching a wire to each ground at each button.
There is usually a large area for
each signal (and another with it for the ground) under each button on
the PCB. You need to figure where to attach easily each corresponding
wire on the PCB. You may find a diagram that lays out the various
points of attachment here or elsewhere online. You can recognize
grounds if their paths are used in more than one button.
The best way to map a PCB is to
rest the PCB on something nonconductive, plug it in, get a wire, and
tap the ends around on the paths of the PCB, noticing what commands
occur, to figure what each path represents. Again, signals will usually
have unique paths while grounds will get shared. Use this to recognize
paths and nodes where wires can be attached. (This is the method I have
used in mapping most my PCBs. A controller PCB should not have enough
voltage to shock you. They are usually 5 volts, upwards of 10, and you
should not even feel anything. I have not been shocked doing this,
grabbing many plugged PCBs in many ways, but do not hold me responsible
if you manage to find a way to hurt yourself doing this.)
In soldering a certain model of PCB
for the first time, I recommend testing the PCB often. Every few
attachments, check if things are working properly. Start by connecting
a ground and test the signals as you go. This testing will help you
narrow down when and where things go wrong in the soldering process.
Each chosen place to solder should
not come in contact with other soldering points or components or nodes;
this can cause signals to constantly be engaged, or other problems. You
will need a wire cutter and stripper to prepare the wire for soldering.
If necessary, use an abrasive tip
like a wire end to scratch rubber or the light-green protection and
expose metal where solder can be attached (a rotary tool with a small
abrasive tip is good for this). It is even possible to solder wire to
thin paths among other paths; use a pin and very carefully scratch the
correct path and avoid scratching the others (it is not easy); support
for the wire and immediate glue will be necessary to keep a solder like
this attached and not tearing the path away.
There are a couple ways to attach
wires to the PCB. You can attach the wire directly to metal plating on
the surface (bending the wire end to an L-shape can help in this). Or
you can drill a hole using a strong 1/16" (2mm; I tend to recommend at
most 1/32" or 1mm; small rotary tools are great for this too) or less
drill bit by the metal plate and thread the wire through the bottom to
solder it like standard soldering is done (this can be tricky and
should not be done on double-sided PCBs).
Solder points can be replaced using
your own wire. Heat the wire end protruding from the solder point while
pulling the wire out. Make sure to recreate the hole by pushing the tip
of the iron into the hole or by using a desoldering tool, or just push
the new wire through while the point is heated. Add some fresh solder
or flux to remove oxidation.
Do not pull hard on cooled solder
connections; the metal plating (especially in smaller areas) can easily
be ripped from the PCB. Sometimes solder touching a wrong location can
be cut away using an utility knife.
If an attachment does not seem to
be holding (often because rubbery substances are melting in the way),
scrape the metal surface again.
Parts of the PCB that are not
critical (like motors and often shoulder PCBs) can be desoldered or cut
away from the rest to make it smaller using a strong tool. You may want
to try to cluster the solders to make this work better. Just be sure
not to cut something essential away; you will have to replace paths
and/or components if it makes the PCB malfunction. The next section
discusses this.
A box (called a project
box/enclosure in electronics) or groove in or box built into the bottom
of the control panel is often made to house and protect the extracted
PCB.
This subsection is a
little more advanced than the others, but it is not all that
complicated. I intentionally separated this subsection because it is
more difficult and not necessary in the PCB process. But those wanting
to go the extra mile are perfectly welcome.
As already stated,
PCB shoulders, motors, and analog stick caps can usually be removed
without a problem. But removing things beyond that, like electronics
components and their paths, can easily cause the PCB to malfunction.
Many small components
are often also added to make the controller function; usually, the
newer the controller, the more added components it has. Some of the
components include (and this stuff is not very important so do not let
it throw you):
Almost always, if one
of these components is removed from contact with the proper paths on
the PCB, the PCB will not function properly. Console and controller
makers make their systems and controllers more complex to offer more
functionality and make their hardware more exclusive and difficult to
imitate; they often add features that will make their controller easily
fail if modified.
More complex
circuitry is also how makers can create multiple grounds. But multiple
grounds is not an accurate term; there is only one simple ground
(usually using the one beneath your feet), and it comes from a unique
wire or battery sink in the PCB. What these more complicated PCBs have
are commons, which is a term short for common lines/paths. Complex
processors dictate diverse paths that must interact to engage. Signals
that share these different paths have commons. Sometimes one of these
commons is the actual ground coming from the cord or battery. A common
ground (as opposed to a simple common line) is the ground shared among
a set of signals (usually all of them) for engagement.
Many PCBs (especially
newer ones) use variable resistors for things like analog sticks and
trigger buttons. Variable resistors make analog functions possible by
giving varying degrees of voltage for different signals.
The analog sticks in
most controllers are constructed in the same way. Four corner solder
points are used to secure the stick to the PCB. Four more solder points
are used to secure the click button which is a switch between the two
points close to the stick and the two points far from the stick. And,
most essential, two variable resistors are attached, one measuring
horizontal movement, the other measuring vertical movement.
Each variable
resistor has three attachment points. One of the side ones is a lower
voltage, usually the ground. The other side one is a higher voltage,
usually the voltage from the cord. The same lower voltage and higher
voltage sources usually each get distributed to each variable resistor.
The middle point is the receiving signal for the processor. Varying
voltage is sent through the signal by adding varying resistance between
the side voltages.
The problem in
removing variable resistors is it leaves zero voltage. Because of this
the PCB will usually consider them engaged. Triggers will be usually be
viewed as held in, and analog sticks will be viewed as a diagonal.
To replace variable
resistors with steady resistors that will make it so interfering
signals are not sent, first remove the resistor by heating the three
solder point and pulling it out. For variable resistors used by
triggers, usually one steady resistor is needed between the voltage
source and the middle signal point. This will send a low voltage (which
usually is not zero) and make the PCB consider it unengaged. 10K
resistors usually work fine, but around 5K is often preferred so it
does not affect much current in the PCB.
In replacing analog
sticks and their variable resistors, things are more complicated.
First, removing them from several solder points can be difficult. You
can usually bend the resistors away from stick and just deal with
removing the other eight points. You will need some desoldering braid
and probably some flux paste. Desoldering braid works like a mop; first
cover the solder needing removal with flux paste so the heat does not
ruin the board and the braid can absorb the solder, then press the
braid directly against the solder and heat it using a soldering iron;
move the braid around like a mop and collect as much solder as you can.
You can also submerge it in constantly heated solder and have it soak
it up. Keep in mind the braid needs to be heated too to absorb the
solder. As braid is used, it is cut and thrown away. With as much
solder removed from the analog sticks as possible, push the stick out
of the PCB; you may need some pliers to help in this.
Note also that desoldering braid can help temporarily removed the cord to make the PCB easier to work.
The PCB might be
perfectly functional with the bulk of the sticks removed and bent
variable resistors remaining, but you can replace them with steady
resistors. But unlike trigger resistors, analog sticks use the full
range of voltage in determining direction; full voltage will be all the
way up, zero voltage will be all the way down, and a voltage in the
middle of those will be neutral. To put the voltage in the middle, two
equal resistors (that can range between 3.3K and 10K, around 5K usually
ideal for current) are needed. One resistor needs to be between the
middle point and each side point to achieve a middle voltage.
But there can also be
another problem for analog stick removal, and it comes from the click
switch. Click switches can have paths necessary to keep the PCB
functional. The most surefire way to deal with this is to examine the
analog stick and see what parts of the switch connects (usually the
inside set and outside set connect); add wire to the PCB connecting the
necessary switch points.
Usually many variable
resistors can be removed in modifying a PCB, which tends to mean many
resistors are necessary. But as Toodles has pointed out, you only need
one for removing all the triggers, and two for removing all the analog
sticks. Each of the middle signals is looking for a certain voltage.
The voltage from one spot where resistance has been applied can be
distributed to all the middle points needing that same voltage. So,
using added wire or solder touching all the needed paths, the voltage
can be taken from the ends of the steady resistors to the middle points
needing it.
Usually analog sticks
use variable resistors in the same way, but triggers can use them
differently. In some cases the PCB will require more resistance/less
voltage to engage the trigger. A multimeter can help in determining
this.
Modifying resistors
can be complicated. I recommend constantly testing between procedures
so you can narrow down where something went wrong. Do one stick at a
time and test often.
It is also possible
to turn variable resistors into on-off switches. No resistance occurs
when either two points have no connectivity or full connectivity (like
a wire linking them). To make added steady resistors into a switch,
connect one side of a switch terminal to one side of the resistor, and
the other side of the resistor to the other terminal; when the switch
engages, the voltage goes low or high, and it is engaged. This can also
be used to turn the analog stick resistors into directional switches.
Note each signal will need its own set of steady resistors. Also note
this is much more difficult when the analog signal requires higher
resistance for engaging.
As demonstrated
already, sometimes some of the PCB itself can be cut away. In newer
PCBs, this can be very risky. Like variable resistors, it's all about
replacing what is removed. When cutting away bare parts of the PCB,
usually paths will need to be replaced with linking wire. I tend not to
recommend this stuff on newer PCBs.
The other thing often
modified on an extract PCB is the cord. Wires in the cord can just be
treated as paths on the PCB. Where one thing is disconnected, it needs
to be reconnect. If using a different make of cord, you will probably
need a multimeter to determine what parts of the PCB lead to what
terminal in the plug, and what wire goes to which terminal in the new
cord.
The multimeter can be
a very useful device. For a PCB, it can measure resistance, voltage,
and connectivity. It can be used in measuring exact resistances to
replace in the PCB, where the voltage is located, and what points
connect where. I have used the connectivity setting in my multimeter to
find grounds or commons in PCBs (because they are shared) and test
points linked to commons and signals (if any).
A few specific models of
controllers can be utilized without soldering; this method is often
called the spiffyshoes hack after the user who brought it attention.
The following models of PCBs can use the solderless technique:
Basically, all that is done in
using one of these controllers is inserting stripped wire tips snugly
into the terminal used by the membrane switches; this membrane has a
path leading to the terminal for each function. You need 22 to 26 AWG
solid (not stranded) insulated wire, and the tips stripped about 3/16"
for PS1 and PS2 PCBs; 24 AWG solid with thin insulation (like extracted
from shielded wire) stripped about 3/32" is necessary for PS3. The best
wire for all solderless PCBs is extracted from 24AWG multiple solid
cable. Since some wire can be a bit thick when lined together, you may
need to strip every other wire end a bit extra, or part every other
wire, to make them fit. You may want to keep the tip of the membrane
inserted to make the fit more snug.
You can cut the tip off the
membrane when using a PS1 model, but you may need the membrane if you
are using a PS2 or PS3 model. The PS2 model has two more paths than the
PS1 model; one path is a ground specific to the start, select, and
analog buttons; the other path is for a resistor; the PS3 has another
resistor and two more paths. The PS2 or PS3 controller will engage most
the buttons when it does not have the resistor(s) and ground in the
membrane attached at the appropriate terminal slots; either the
membrane or a 1K to 10K resistor for PS2, or 7.5K to 8.5K for PS3
(cannot use the membrane on the PS3 PCB when doing solderless), wrapped
(staggered) around the bordering wires must be installed with the wires
to function. You may need to angle the membrane and wires so they make
proper contact, so the added resistor will work much better.
When finished inserting, you want
to find a way to secure the wires so they will not fall out. One way to
do this is to use long wire (about 12" - 16") from the start, bunch the
wires together, add some fastener to them, and loop them around the
PCB. Another way is using hot glue; be sure that all the wires are
working where they are placed before doing this more permanent
securing. The glue is risky and I do not recommend it.
As simple as this may sound, it can
be very frustrating; wires slip out and do not like to fit sometimes;
getting to the point where every wire is inserted properly can take a
long time. This process can be hit or miss; I much prefer soldering
over doing this. The wire can also warp the terminals so the membrane
no longer works well with the PCB. Solder makes things much more
durable as well.
This subsection contains images with labels for many different PCBs.
The labeled points are only suggestions as PCBs
can be exploited in many different ways, especially when outside
electronics components are involved. Signals are circled in blue. Main
grounds are circled in red. There is generally only one ground possible
in each PCB; some newer PCBs make the illusion of multiple grounds by
creating required interactions between parts of the processor; when a
ground is not the actual ground, it is labeled common, which is short
for common line, ie they have a common connection. Commons function in
the same way as grounds. Different commons are labeled in different
colors. Some ground/commons may circle points that look empty; this
suggests that the ground/common covers many areas and the spot can be
scratched for an attachment point.
The voltage points are circled in yellow with a
corresponding number. This is only important if you need an energy
source for an analog joystick or LED, or maybe for multiple PCBs.
Actual voltage often depends on the system or converter in which the
controller is plugged.
Keep in mind that some controllers (like PS A controllers) may have the same model information and contain different PCBs.
If this subsection does not have your
controller, refer to the PCB mapping subsection or try to find a
diagram elsewhere. For some of the more simple PCBs, some simple
electronics may suffice. There are many more complex ways to use
electronics which this site will not cover, but can be found elsewhere.
The best wire for controller electronics will usually
come with the description "hook-up" for it. It is insulated and comes
either stranded or solid in various thicknesses.
Stranded wire is made up of multiple smaller threads of
wire (similar to the fibers in string), while solid wire is one whole
length of metal. Which to use is a matter of preference, but most
prefer stranded wire. Stranded wire is much more flexible and prone to
fraying, while solid wire retains its shape and does not fray.
Flexibility will make the wire less hard on solder points and easier to
twist, but will make it more difficult to organize. Fraying can make
the wire more difficult to work and cause undesired contacts. Stranded
wire also tends to hold better in crimping terminals, and has more
surface to bond with solder. Plus you can tin stranded wire with solder
to make it solid.
Thicker wire will be less flexible and fray more, while
thinner wire will be more flexible and fray less. Wire thickness is
rated usually according to AWG (American Wire Gauge); the higher the
number, the thinner the wire. Here are some measurements which exclude
insulation (which can vary in thickness depending on how the
manufacturer makes it):
For PCBs and devices, 20-26 AWG (I have come to like
solid 24 AWG most) insulated wire has an appropriate thickness, works
well with crimping (especially for .110" connection and chaining), and
fits into a PCB well. 18 AWG wire is too large and rigid, and 28 AWG is
often too fragile. Color-coded connectors for 18-22 AWG wire will be
red and not blue or yellow; 24 AWG wire and folded 26 AWG wire works
for red connectors as well, but do have very small connectors coded
yellow for them.
Using different colors of insulated wire can make it
easier to distinguish each wire in the mess that can likely develop.
Thinly insulated wire in many colors can be extracted from certain
multiconductor cables like shielded and outdoor wiring and phone cable
(and it can be much less expensive too). Having just two colors, one
for signals and one for grounds, can help a lot. If you are going for a
certain inside look, the variety of colors may not matter to you.
Modified computer cable (like ATA cable) can work too.
Labeling tape around wires like little flags can help
when putting the wiring together; there are flag products that
specifically do this.
Various terminals and connectors can
be placed on the ends of wires. Like solder, they attach wire to switch
terminals on devices. They can also be used in certain terminal blocks.
The only tool they require is a crimper. Insulated terminals (which are
usually color-coded) use oval-shaped areas on the crimper, while
non-insulated terminals (which are usually bare) use U-shaped areas on
the crimper. Terminals also come single-barrel or double-barrel;
double-barrel terminals crimp in two locations and are stronger.
Insulation can also come separate and removable; these forms of
insulation are heat-shrink tubing, sleeves, housings, and boots.
Terminal crimping may be preferred
over soldering because it is quick, easy, and clean. Soldering may be
preferred because it requires no special pieces and is less bulky, and
wire can slip out of crimped terminals.
Crimping is a pretty easy process:
Standards microswitches fit .187”
(3/16”) female quick disconnects. This size is used on all Sanwa,
Seimitsu, and Happ joysticks (without wire harnesses) and buttons with
a standard microswitch attached. Some joysticks have .250" (1/4")
terminals. Note also that quick disconnects have thickness ratings,
usually about .02" or .032" (about .5mm or 1mm); get the smaller
thickness or it will likely not hold the terminal.
Most buttons not attached to standard
microswitches use .110” female quick disconnects. These are mainly for
Sanwa and Seimitsu buttons. Larger quick disconnects can fit on these
terminals, but they are less secure. The problem with .110” quick
disconnects is most hardware stores do not carry them, so you probably
have to order them online. If you are making an order for Sanwa or
Seimitsu buttons, check to see if they also sell these quick
disconnects so you can save time and money getting them with your other
parts.
Two connects are needed for each button, and eight are needed for each joystick that does not use a wire harness.
Terminals such as quick disconnects
can also be soldered to wire; I tend to prefer soldering wire to
terminals because it is about a 100% joint. Noninsulated, single-barrel
terminals are usually best for simple soldering. But both soldering and
crimping can be done. The wire can be tinned with a lot of solder,
inserted, crimped, then heated so the solder bonds inside; this is a
very strong joint.
The other option to device switch connections is
simple wire twisting. It is not as strong as soldering or crimping.
Twisting also requires a wire cutter and stripper. It needs thin and
well-stripped wire, with stranded (not solid) wire working much better.
Wrap the wire end(s) through and around the hole in the switch
terminal.
But twisting also has its use in conjunction with crimping and soldering.
Splicing involves adding two wire ends
to one side of a connection. The main use for this is spreading the
ground around to different devices.
When more than one device uses a
ground, it can be distributed by chaining it to all the devices that
need it. Regardless of connection, the two wires being spliced can be
twisted together before being connected. With a crimping terminal, both
wires are inserted and crimped into the same terminal. With soldering,
they are both soldered in the same spot. With twisting, they are just
twisted together around the switch terminal.
Splicing can also be done using a terminal strip.
Most joysticks have each of their four
switches open, each needing a ground and a signal. If the ground is
universal, it can be chained to all four. If some have unique grounds
(commons), corresponding commons need to be attached.
Other joysticks have a built-in PCB and a
wire harness. These wires just need to be linked to a single ground and
each corresponding signal. However, this is a problem if some
directions have unique grounds (commons). When the wrong common makes
contact with a direction, it can engage other commands, or make the PCB
generally malfunction. Besides avoiding multiple-common PCBs, there are
various ways to deal with a joystick in this situation:
One way is to see if the different
commons just require different resistance. In this case resistors can
just be added. This is rarely the case though.
Another way established by Toodles is to
use integrated circuits like the 74HC4066N and inverter chips to sort
the commons. This can be complicated, and you way want to look into how
these work or find someone (like maybe Toodles) to make it easier.
The most direct way to counter this
problem is by partly bypassing the wire harness. You can cut contact
between the joystick switches, the PCB, and/or the wire harness for
different commons. You can do this by cutting contact between the
switch ground terminals and the PCB, or by carving away small parts of
the paths on the PCB, and connecting common wires directly to the
ground terminals on the switches. For example, some X-Box 360 wired
PCBs have three different commons on the directional pad, one for up
and down, and the other two for left and right; ground circuits could
be cut for left and right and each switch could get its common wire
attached directly, and the wire harness could be used normally for the
remaining connections.
The other way to fix this is to change
the joystick into an open-terminal version. Standard microswitches from
various manufacturers can replace the PCB version without changing the
height of the joystick (even for the JLF); if the joystick uses levered
switches, you may need the corrent model of microswitch. You can also
just cut away the PCB and use the remaining switches and their bent
terminals.
Many arcade controller
builders feed the wires from the extract PCB to barrier and/or jumper
strips (also called terminal blocks). This makes it so the lengths of
the wires attached to the PCB can be uniform and non-specific, and the
signals and wires can be much more organized, and the PCB can be
modified more easily. The strip can also be used for duplicating or
converging signals (multiple wires can use the same terminal strip
point); this is useful in make some switches do the same thing or
making a controller use more than one PCB.
Spade and ring terminals fit
wire ends from the PCB and switches into standard terminal strips.
Spade terminals can slide under screws for easy movement, but are held
with just friction. Ring terminals have to be installed and removed
with the entire screw, but hold very strongly.
European-style terminal
strips only require wire ends stripped about 1/8" to 1/4" to be
secured. The ends get wedged down by screws. I tend to prefer
European-style strips because they are easier and do not require
connectors. And European-style strips can be trimmed down using a saw.
With the ground(s) and
various signal wires attached to the PCB, link them to the proper
button and joystick switches. Each switch needs a signal and a ground.
Use some splicing and chaining to distribute the ground(s). Use various
wire mounts for better organization.
With the wiring set, thread
the cord out, or position the remote at, a groove or hole in the front
of the controller box. Perhaps tie the cord in a knot or attach some
kind of bulk at the area just before the cord exits the box to prevent
potential yanking from damaging the insides of the controller. Or
instead of this cut the cord about where it meets the side of the box
and install a D-sub or USB connector to make the cord more independent
of the controller.
It should also be noted that
some controllers are made with all the devices wired directly to a
D-sub connector. The connector is then attached to an outside project
box with the other side of the connector connected to the various
points on an enclosed PCB. This makes a controller PCB-independent, but
also makes it much more bulky.
A specially made PCB specifically for a custom
controller can cost a little more and is generally made for PCs with
more expensive converters available. But it can save a lot of time, is
much more simple, and does not require soldering.
There currently are not many choices in custom PCBs.
Ultimarc (based in Japan) produces the I-PAC and
other variations of it. It has terminal strips (European-style) built
into the PCB. It also has software to alter the button settings. It
comes based for PC, but converters are available from them. (link)
Groovy Game Gear (based in the US) produces the Key-Wiz and other
variations of it. These PCBs are very similar to the Ultimarc versions.
(link)
Using the I-PAC or Key-Wiz is very simple. Strip about 1/4" or 1/3" off
the end of the wire connected to the switch, feed it into the desired
signal, and wedge it down securely with the screw. Each switch needs
the proper signal and the ground. Use some splicing and chaining to
distribute the ground. Use various wire mounts for better organization.
Image: Bottom view example setup for a custom PCB
Another option is the Universal PCB produced by Toodles. This is
about as versatile as a PCB can get. It can be used on many systems,
requiring mainly the plug head on a system's cord and some wiring. It
needs instruction (which is given), some work, and some soldering
equipment to utilize. Toodles has also begun to make simpler PCBs that
work for common consoles; these are great for those not wanting to deal
with soldering. (link)
X-Arcade sells the PCB used in their controller alone, though a bit
expensive. Avoid this PCB because it lags at lot. It comes with
ready-made wiring using only .187" terminals. (link)
Multiple PCBs can be used in the same
controller, but problems can occur in doing so. There are a couple ways
to do it. One involves project boxes with D-sub connectors that sit
outside the controller, and the other involves splicing multiple PCBs
within the controller to complementary signals and grounds (commons).
A D-sub is basically a plug that continues
different wires. When using one with a PCB sitting in a project box
outside the controller, the insides of the controller are sorted to the
D-sub connector so that no PCB sits inside the controller and it is PCB
independent. Outside the controller, each of these wires lead to the
other side of the D-sub, which leads to wires connected to the desired
locations on the PCB. Basically, an external project box is the same as
a PCB inside the controller, but the different wires go through a
connector which leads to the PCB outside the box. Different project
boxes can then be made to use different PCBs for the same controller.
The other multiple PCB method is housing
multiple PCBs inside a single controller. Complementary signals and
grounds (commons) for each PCB are in some way or another sorted to the
same terminals on each joystick and button switch. They can converge at
different points. They could meet on the switch terminals, but I do not
recommend this. A good way is to link one PCB directly to another PCB
in the complementary locations. Another good way is to have them
converge in the same terminal strip. They will then have the same
circuits completing on each PCB. Be careful that the ground (commons)
and signals are sorted properly to avoid engaged switches.
PCBs linked to each other need to have their
ground and voltage connected. It is necessary because a PCB, or more
specifically an integrated circuit, needs to have power connections to
function properly. If a linked PCB does not have power for the
integrated circuit, it will cross signals and cause the other PCB to
make strange connections. I have personally tried working without power
in one of the PCBs and it causes strange things to occur.
But, as with joysticks using wire harnesses,
the biggest problem for multiple PCBs has to do with multiple commons
in individual PCBs. Again, if the wrong common makes contact with a
signal, adverse commands often occur.
Multiple commons is not so much a problem for
project boxes; they can be sorted decently with some planning. But for
multiple internal PCBs, this can make the PCB with the multiple commons
malfunction. Imagine one PCB has a single ground while the other has
two commons; the single ground and one of the multiple commons are
sorted to their various switches, which is not yet a problem; but then
the same ground is sorted with the second common to the other switches;
because all the wires from the single-ground PCB are linked (either
with one another or through the PCB structure), and because the first
common on the two-common PCB touches the single ground, the first
common will get linked to the second common causing the commons to
combine and create problems.
Generally, it is recommended that PCBs using a
single common are used when configuring multiple PCBs. Currently the
most popular of these configurations is a PS1 PCB mixed with a Mad Catz
Xbox 360 (late version) PCB because each PCB has a single common. This
problem can be countered using either diodes or integrated circuits
that sort and separate the commons, but this is not likely going to be
worth the effort. Keep in mind that there are converters available too.
Toodles is also making PCBs that make doing multiple PCBs easier.
